This is from March of 04. We were probably 30 days or so from finishing our 10 month tour in Afghanistan and everyone (yours truly included) was burned out. I have to admit, I don’t remember this part of my tour very well, I was living in some sort of zombie like state.
17 March 04
I think my watch is broken….
Einstein theorized years ago that the closer you got to a black hole the slower time progresses. With (hopefully) little more than a month left before we leave this giant litter box know as Afghanistan I’ve made an interesting discovery. By some strange coincidence, it appears that our base here is located right on top of the grand-daddy of black holes. I base this conclusion on how freakin’ long every day seems to be here. In the mornings we look forward to lunch. In the afternoons we look forward to dinner. Then, we get up and do it all over again.
I’d like to at least say that we’re doing something valuable here but to be quite honest just about everyone seems burned out by this point. Everyone’s pretty tired of hearing ‘Well, it looks like we’ll be here just a little longer. But we’re REALLY going home after that!’ and productivity is plummeting. I should know, I spend most of my day looking around to see if anyone is still working. Just about the only people scurrying around are those trying to impress their boss but they don’t really count since their devoting all their energy into looking busy rather than actually being busy.
Does the Army issue you bananas too?
One of the guys in our unit just came back from a couple weeks at this little firebase that they’re constructing. Here at Bagram, we’re the largest base in the country and conventional wisdom would have it that we have the most amenities and comfortable living standards. So when I saw this guy I asked him if he was glad to be back.
‘No way. Base X (that’s what I’ll call it here) was great!’
Then he told me what they’ve got there. Locals come by the base every day to sell stuff while we haven’t had a bazaar since the middle of December. The official reason we don’t have one is ’security concerns’. Of course, everywhere in the country has security concerns yet we seem to be the only ones without a bazaar. That just encourages everyone to take shopping trips to Kabul under the thinly veiled guise of some ‘operational mission’. I’ll leave it to you. Which seems safer, bringing locals to us, where we can search them and control what’s going on or having a couple hundred troops drive about an hour to shop in a crowded city where bombs go off like popcorn?
Yeah, seems pretty clear to me too.
Apparently Base X also has monkeys! I don’t have all the details but apparently monkeys live nearby and they have a few on post. I’m not even allowed a dang pet rock here and they have monkeys.
I want a monkey! Where’s my monkey?!
Well, I don’t really want a monkey. I settle for a dog though. At this point even a stuffed one.
Can steroids be far behind?
On a bright note, I’ve started going back to the gym again. Now you don’t just ‘go’ to the gym. There’s actually quite a bit of planning required in order to make your work out experience rewarding. First you have to pick the right time. The gym is rather small and there’s a bazillion soldiers here just as bored as you and thinking that this is a great time to start working out so the ideal time to go is when all those bozos are doing something else. Once you figure out the best time to go in order to get on one of the machines or get to the weights you have to be careful who is sharing the gym with you. I’ve always worked out by myself so I’m a little picky when it comes to the conditions under which I’ll work out.
One of the most important rules is that I can’t be overwhelmed by other people’s noxious body odor while I’m working out. It just ruins my concentration and grosses me out. Usually it’s not too bad but when the Egyptian troops are working out at the gym I make a bee-line right for the door. I’m not sure if these guys don’t know what deodorant is or they don’t bathe frequently or what but those guys STINK! I can smell them from ten or more feet away and almost immediately start to turn green and scramble for the fresh air. Now I don’t expect people to smell like the lady at the perfume counter at Macy’s while working out but how about no smell instead of ‘peel the paint off of cars’ body odor?
They do play music in the gym too but most people bring their own walkmans. The music choices the gym people make can be a little weird sometimes. The other day they were playing this generic techno-pop stuff that made me think I was in some trendy women’s clothing store in a mall. The only thing missing was the disinterested seventeen year old girl chewing gum and asking if I needed any help finding anything (Not that I frequently shop in women’s clothing stores or anything. I just know this stuff because I pass these stores. And no, I don’t know how that skirt got in my bag and, yes, I do think it’s an incredible coincidence that it happens to be my size. Now if you don’t mind I’ve got a story to finish.)
Did you see that Monet exhibition in stall 4?
Another good thing about the place is that we’ve got real toilets now. There are still porta-potties around but if you’ve got that need for porcelain you can get it. It’s still a hike from our tents and work areas and it’s more a communal thing than an individual bathroom but hey, I am not complaining. Running water is definitely my friend. Now that we have these bathrooms and they’re clearly marked ‘Male’ and ‘Female’ I’m interested to see how the sexes graffiti up their bathrooms differently.
The male bathrooms tend to focus mainly on bodily functions and pictures of varying quality of the human anatomy. Now, you’d guess that there would be lots of pictures of females drawn on the ways but in fact (and a bit disturbingly), it seems that there are way too many guys drawing pictures of wieners out there. I’m not really sure what the purpose is but it kind of creeps me out. I’m not sure if that’s what they like to look at or they’re just drawing ‘what’s at hand’ (like other artists would paint a bowl of fruit) but it doesn’t seem right. I can’t imagine chicks drawing pictures of naked chicks on the bathroom wall (although, that might be kind of cool) so I’m not sure what’s behind all this. To make things more mysterious, I don’t even know how to find an answer to this burning question. I can’t just go around and randomly ask guys: ‘Hey, have you ever drawn a wiener in the bathroom stall?’ I’ll get punched in the face! I’m all for progress and expanding the limits of human knowledge but I don’t want a black eye. And who would ever admit to drawing a wiener in the bathroom (or anywhere for that matter)? I mean, why would a guy do something like that? What’s the motivation? It’s not like some art museum is going to do a ‘Wieners through the ages’ exhibit and take this knuckleheads doodles and display them. Hmmmm….maybe someone out there knows a psychology professor or something who can enlighten me on this subject.
I can’t find any chicks who will tell me about the graffiti in the women’s latrine but I’m working on developing some spies who can give me the real poop (so to speak). Be rest assured, gentle reader, as soon as I get the poop, I’ll pass it along to you.
Like I said we have actual running water available to us know just about whenever we want it. It isn’t like the water that comes out of your taps in the states though. The water we have is referred to officially as ‘gray water’. That appealing term means that the water is disinfected (which means we won’t get some weird disease from it) but there are signs everywhere warning us that it’s not suitable to drink. I’m not sure what could be in the water that would make it disinfected but not safe but I’m sure it can’t be good. It’s probably loaded with some weird radioactive elements that will make me grow a third arm or something. You can tell that no one in the army has ever taken a marketing course. If we were in the real world, something as unappealing as ‘gray water’ would get some nifty packaging and a much better name. Even if they still called it gray water but just did it in a different language it would sound better. How about ‘l’eau de gris’ or ‘agua acinzentada’? I bet you’d be willing to pay top dollar for something like that.
Just when I thought Afghanistan couldn’t surprise me any more…..
There isn’t a lot of wildlife in this part of the country. Apparently the animals around here learned a lesson long ago that the people still haven’t picked up yet. If you live in a mud hut and are surrounded by land mines and people trying to kill you, it might be a good idea to move to another neighborhood.
But this morning I was greeted to the sounds of migrating ducks, showing me that the animal kingdom hasn’t abandoned this country yet, even if they just use it as a pit stop. I should clarify the whole experience however. When I say that this happened ‘this morning’ I should say that it was dark, everyone was still sleeping but it was after midnight so, technically it was morning. The sound wasn’t the pleasant ‘quack quack’ we hear in the states as a couple ducks swim around some pond dipping their heads in the water for a quick snack. Instead, it was a mass quacking episode loud enough to wake me out of a sound sleep and keep me up for hours. At one point I was tempted to take my M-16 and fire off a couple of rounds to keep them quiet. I thought better about it though when I realized that I would have had to fire towards a bunch of tents holding special forces troops. The last thing I needed was a bunch of trigger happy ’special operators’ thinking that my tent is the new headquarters for the Taliban.
Usually at night my sleep is interrupted courtesy of the U.S. Air Force who seem to think that the middle of the night is the ideal time to rev all the jet engines they have up to see how much noise they can make. To be fair though the Air Force planes aren’t nearly as bad as the navy and marine planes. I’m pretty sure that when the navy and marines order planes they include in the product specifications that the thing has to be able to blow out your eardrums from a mile away. Of course, the navy and marines thought the Air Force had a great idea, and shortly after arriving here, starting tinkering with their engines all night too. (Now, if you were paying attention you should have seen something strange in the last paragraph. Yep, we actually have a contingent of navy personnel here. If you’re still not sure why that’s weird take a look at a map of Afghanistan. There isn’t an ocean anywhere near this country. Not even a decent size lake. I’m thinking this is some sort of elaborate deception plan to keep Al-Queda guessing about what’s going on.)
On the bright side, both the birds and the planes do eventually stop making noise. Usually right after the sun comes up and I have to start getting ready to go to work.
So, I’m listening to this cacophony of birds for a couple of hours and I finally accept the fact that I just won’t be getting any more sleep. Fortunately, since it’s St. Patricks day we had a ‘fun run’ organized around the perimeter of the base (a little more than 6 miles). Now, I run fairly frequently but I still have trouble putting the words ‘fun’ and ‘run’ together. I originally had no intention of doing the run because:
1) I had done it once already and really saw no reason to do a repeat performance. I had, as they say, done that and gotten the T-shirt (Literally, I’ve got a T-shirt attesting to the fact that I ran in BIG, BIG circle in Afghanistan). Once you get one of those it’s hard to recapture the high of the first time. Kind of like heroin.
2) The run started at 5:30 in the morning and my first response to someone who recommends getting up that early to run 6 miles is probably the same as yours would be: ‘Are you out of your F’ing mind?!’
Since I had nothing better to do I figured that this was the cosmos’ way of telling me I should get off my tuckus and run. Besides, maybe it’d be fun.
See what my life has come to? The high point of my day involves getting up at five in the morning so I can run six miles.
I’m going to need lots of therapy when I get home.
Charge it!
We do have other things to look forward to while here. There’s lunch, dinner and the PX. The holy trinity that keeps me relatively sane and breaks up my otherwise bleak day into bite size chunks.
The PX is small but does have a constantly changing inventory. The key to shopping there is when you see something you think you might even slightly want at some point, get it because if you wait and come back in a day or two it’ll be gone and it’ll NEVER be restocked again. That also means that you’ve got to go and check the place out every day or two or you just KNOW that you’ll miss out of the really good stuff. Like I said, that works well for me because it introduces some structure into my day. So today while I was there I was perusing the CD rack and was compelled, by some unknown force, to buy a CD of Jimmy Buffet’s greatest hits. Now, I don’t have anything against Jimmy but the only song of his I really know is ‘Margaritaville’ which just happens to be the first song on the CD. So I walk to the counter, like some sort of consumer zombie unable to put the damn thing down even though I realize there’s a good chance I won’t ever get past track 1 on this thing.
I’m starting to realize that it’s just easier to accept fate, buy the dang thing and get out of there. Otherwise, I’d just wander around the PX for 15 minutes (and it’s not that big so I would just walk in circles like a mental patient) and end up buying the thing anyway. So, I shuffled off towards the cashier and got in line. Since the PX is the only store we can get to there is always a line and accompanying wait. Today it was a little longer than usual so I was preparing to settle in for a wait in one of three lines snaking towards the registers.
Then…..I hit the lottery.
A lady came up and said ‘People paying in cash go to the right. People paying with a credit card go to the registers on the left.’ Then it was like the seas parted for Moses as everyone moved to the cash only lane and I saw a clear shot to the register. I had the cash but one look at that line and I decided that it didn’t matter if I only had a seventy nine cent toothbrush to buy, I was putting this on plastic. So, I zoomed up to the front of my line with a self satisfied smirk on my face and thankful that I had a good credit rating.
So, while I thought the high point of my day was going to be the run, in fact, it was getting an express pass to the front of the line at the PX so I could buy my Jimmy Buffet CD that I’m not sure if I’ll listen to.
Like I said, I’m going to need lots of therapy when I get home………